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Martenero Edgemere Reserve: Chic & Functional From New York

September 17, 2021

I might as well confess sooner rather than later, I love this watch and it’s on a very short list of watches I will be buying soon. My only issue is, I actually can’t decide between which of the four color combinations I’ll be choosing. I really do think they’re all awesome.

These days most micro brands seem to go one of two ways: vintage with a twist or reinventing the wheel. Luckily for us, Martenero did neither. They have gone their own way and created a timepiece that really stands out from the micro brand crowd. 

It’s not very often you find a watch that’s loved by both the creative crowd and the functional fans. But this watch is chic and functional from New York. The Martenero Edgemere Reserve gives you the best of both worlds. Let’s dive in!

Overview

With the updated version of their Edgemere, the Edgemere Reserve, Martenero have taken a stylish and useful watch and made it better. It has a beautiful design that is both eye-catching, stylish and classy. It comes with four color combinations, each as stunning as the other: white-blue, silver, medium-blue, and dark-blue.

Martenero have iterated from the original, adding functional and stylish complications while updating the design. A power reserve indicator, a date window and a 24-hour sub-dial are welcome additions. The result is a watch that ticks all the boxes. You can wear it anywhere for any occasion and it won’t look out of place. Combined with quality design and a reliable premium movement, you have a watch that does everything.

Martenero Edgemere Reserve - White Blue

Specification

Diameter Thickness Case Movement Crystal More Information
40mm 11.8mm  316L Stainless Steel Miyota 9132  Sapphire   CHECK PRICE

Design

The original Edgemere was a classically simple design. But with the addition of new features on the dial, Martenero have taken this watch to the next level. And I love it. 

The Edgemere Reserve is inspired by marine chronometers and it shows. But instead of trying to make a modern copy, Martenero has gone their own way. And the result is a truly individual timepiece that mixes top-notch design with daily useability.

The subtle textured and multi-layered dial really draws the eye. The clever use of color flashes on the hands, date window frame, and 24-hour sub-dial speak to a loving attention to detail. And the 40mm diameter, 11.8mm thickness means it is the perfect size for almost every occasion and sits snugly on the wrist.

Dial

I think the dial on this watch is one of the best I’ve seen for a while. Sometimes, different textures, colors and surfaces on a dial can combine to make a watch less. It becomes busy and cluttered. On the Edgemere Reserve, it’s totally the other way. The combination of colors and textures makes this an absolutely stunning watch. 

The added complications the Miyota movement allows give the watch functionality. I think a power reserve indicator and date window are useful features. I’m not so convinced about the usefulness of a 24-hour dial, I can usually tell if it’s morning or afternoon, but the splash of color the dial adds to the face is a positive addition.

I prefer watches with numerals, maybe it’s because I need help to tell the time, but whatever the reason I think a face with numerals looks more complete. The Arabic numerals on the Edgemere Reserve are a good size and suit the overall look. Martenero have added separate applied rings around the outside for the hours and seconds and this too, just fits. It could’ve been overly complicated, but it’s not, it’s almost perfect.

Splashes of different color on the hands are a quirky detail, but like most things on the Reserve, it’s not just about looks. The color really improves readability, and helps you tell the time at a glance.

Case & Crystal

The case is a good example of the Martenero design philosophy. There is nothing standard or off-the-shelf here. It is a completely custom designed and built stainless steel case. It contains subtle details that lift it from merely adequate to something great, without pulling your attention from the watch's stunning dial.

Martenero have combined polished and brushed surfaces to play with the light depending on the angle you look at it. Angles on the case sides add to its appeal, and the overall finish is first class.

The crystal is domed sapphire, to aid in legibility and provide excellent scratch protection. Anti-reflex coating means you can read the watch well in bright sunlight. 

The display caseback lets you glimpse at the movement, and although there is not a lot to see, it is another suggestion of Martenero’s care and consideration. They have even added a compass rose to the caseback as a nod to the marine inspiration for the watch.

Movement

The Martenero Edgemere Reserve is fitted with the Miyota 9132 automatic movement. It’s a premium mechanism that is reliable. Accuracy is officially -10+30 seconds per day, but I’ve found it to be better than that on other watches I’ve seen.

With a power reserve of 40 hours, the 26 jewel movement will keep ticking for almost two days before stopping. And for those of you who prefer a hacking movement, you’ll be happy to know this is one.

Strap

Martenero ships the Edgemere Reserve with a leather pin and buckle strap. There is nothing to note here. The strap is very comfortable and the color schemes match the watch dial. The leather is supple and wears well. If you decide you want to swap out the strap, it’s a 20mm lug width. Personally, I don’t think I will be replacing the strap, but that’s up to you.

Final Thoughts

I try to be objective in all my reviews. If there are things I don’t like about a watch, I’ll say so. But I can’t find much wrong with the Martenero Edgemere Reserve.

This watch has a combination of design and usefulness that really hits the spot for me. You can wear it anywhere and it’s functional and looks great.

The greatest compliment I can give is: I will definitely be purchasing my own soon.

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Author
Alastair Crombie
I’ve been collecting watches since I bought a ‘Rowex’ for a fiver from a mate when I was 10. He told me you pronounced it Rolex and that’s how it all started. I used to love that Rowex. These days I still tend to stick to the more affordable end of the market. Both my wallet and my wife are happier that way. My favorite watch changes with the seasons, and that’s what I love about watches. Each one doesn’t just tell the time, much more importantly, they tell a story.
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